{ Berlin }




Feb 28 - Mar 2, 2014 -- Jon and I spent a brief night in Berlin last summer while driving to Poland with my parents. Our short visit left much to be desired so we were in no hurry to return for a formal visit. One would be hard-pressed to find a more devastated city than Berlin after the second world war, and the reconstruction efforts continue to dominate today's skyline (and have for years). New government buildings, new infrastructure, new neighborhoods and a new airport have turned the city into a giant construction site. Of course this means traffic is a nightmare and, in general, just looks unappealing. 


We realized it wasn't fair to judge a city by a night spent in a hotel on the outskirts of town under the landing path of an international airport - especially since we were likely a touch grumpy from our 10 hour flight and 6 hour first leg of our drive. We had actually heard amazing things about this city and decided to add it to our itinerary, do a little research and create a weekend game plan. 


The first page of any Berlin travel book will undoubtedly mention the city's rich history. Much of this history is dark but Berlin also claims a number of great contributions. With countless museums, memorials and battle sites, neither of us was ready to dive into ALL the history that Berlin has to offer. It is plentiful and overwhelming and, frankly, quite depressing. We knew we wanted to visit the last standing section of the Berlin Wall and see some of the Holocaust memorials, but in general our plan was to keep the educational elements to a minimum. What we didn't realize is that the city has made an impressive effort to remind it's visitors and residents about their city's history. There are memorials, large and small, scattered throughout the city - not to be missed. 
These brass plaques are called Stolperstein (German for " stumbling blocks" ). They were placed in the 1990s to commemorate the Jewish population that died during the Holocaust and thousands are scattered throughout the city's sidewalks. It really made us appreciate the gravity of the terrible events that unfolded.
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (the Neue Wache). Such a beautiful monument.

When we arrived, on Friday, we were greeted with a speedy and cost effective city train (the entire city is accessible by a EUR 1.50 train ticket), which took us straight to the heart of Berlin. Our stop was Alexanderplatz, but with all of our map searching (trying to figure out which way to walk toward our hotel), we neglected to realize our surroundings and almost missed the tallest structure in Germany. 

This tower has very little historical significance, but it's giant, unattractive and can be seen throughout the city. We used it as a navigation marker to guide our adventures. Other than having a large open "platz" surrounded by a neglected shopping mall, neither of us could really understand the draw of this particular destination. So we checked off one of our "must see" sites and headed to our hotel to drop our bags and find lunch.  

Jon and I were both intrigued by the lack of people wandering the streets. In Paris, Madrid, even Reykjavik, locals and tourists were out and about, filling the streets with noise and making their presence known. Berlin was silent in comparison - and of those that we did see on the streets were speaking other languages than German. We learned that not only had many residents been killed as a result of WWII, but great number of people fled from East Berlin to West Berlin, and beyond, just before the Berlin Wall was erected.
Walking around, we came across meter-wide sections of wall that have been used as canvas for street art, as well as portions of sidewalk with a pattern of brick inlaid - this was to show where the wall had been. As almost all of the wall had been destroyed and removed, we did visit the site where a portion of the wall remained. You can still see the holes that had been carved by locals and their hammers; standing there, really trying to absorb of the wall and the effect it had on the residents, we couldn't. Truthfully, even with a father who lived in and left communist Poland, I cannot fathom what life could have possibly been like. It is easy to be so unaware of the just how lucky a life I have led, but being surrounded by the depressing and ugliness of that history definitely gave me a swift kick.

The rounded bits were placed atop the wall so that those on the East couldn't
 get a good grip and climb over.
These inlayed bricks are were where the wall once stood.
Metal posts in the spaces filling the gaps between the still standing portion of the wall.



We visited an abandoned bunker that was used during the WWII air-raids. We weren't able to take photos, but were guided through the rooms that would become packed, beyond capacity, by residents trying to stay safe from bombings. The rooms were small and would lose electricity when the sirens went off, so they were painted with a (toxic) glow in the dark paint. This paint not only served as a  light source, but also as a base for instructional information to be painted on. It would point you in the direction of exits, restrooms and had other "helpful" information. Some of the rooms have turned into small museum like spaces, housing shells from bombs, belongings of soldiers as well as civilians and some Nazi propaganda. Along the same historical time frame, we also visited the Memorial to the Murdered Jews, just a block few streets away from the Brandenburg Gate. It was a very interesting memorial, not depressing, like you would expect, instead it was kind of simple and beautiful. It was a little sad seeing tourists posing on top of some of the cement blocks, as if it were a park table statue at a zoo.



The more uplifting parts of our weekend were taking in the buildings of Berlin. There is a modern feel, the high-rise and big buildings of communist era Berlin, as well as old European architecture (think Paris). Hitler actually wanted to emulate the look of Paris... on a grander scale, and succeeded in some aspects - the buildings are quite impressive, just a little less historically significant. We did notice, upon closer inspection, that a number of those older buildings still have bullet and mortar holes in them. While most of the buildings have had extensive repairs, they did leave some of the battle scars for people to see. 




Some of the u un-repaired damage from allied forces.



This is just as you walk into the Sony Center.
And then there was the food. Since Berlin isn't full of Germans anymore, the food reflects that. While you can find German food, it's not what the locals eat. We did try the truly Berlin cuisine of Berliner doughnuts and currywurst; Jon doesn't necessarily appreciate the deep fried and greasy food... I do, I loved it! All bakeries seemed to have a couple varieties of the filled doughnut (no complaints!), and the currywurst is a street food and should really be consumed in that environment. If you order it in a restaurant, you'll be disappointed and will have overpaid. We had ours at a little shop while sipping a local beer and people watching. As much as we I enjoyed the experience, I will say that once you've had it - you don't really need to keep repeating it. We also partook in the worldly cuisine that Berlin has to offer, more importantly that Amsterdam lacks. We took away some delicious sushi as well as had some fantastic thai food.

Schnitzel on the left, Currywurst on the right. 
Strawberry filled berliner :)
One of the tours we decided on was the climb up to the top of the dome on the Reichstag building, where parliament meets. The dome is made of all glass panels that allow for the air inside the building to escape and has mirrored panels that reflect the sun down into the main room. It was not the most exciting tour, but it provided us with a beautiful panoramic view of the city and allowed for us to see an amazing sunset that we would have not even noticed if we had been on the ground.





These mirrors reflect the light down into the building, there is a rotating metal shade that
follows the sun so that the building doesn't heat up too much.

These photos done even come close to doing the sunset justice. The sky looked quite normal and grey, but the sun was an intense red color. 

All in all, our trip was fantastic. Contrary to our not so high expectations, we had a great time. While the city is busy with construction, the streets are relatively quiet of people. This made for pleasant travel and short waits. There is a young vibe, with music and bars all throughout the city, small boutique shopping and delicious food. Though Jon and I really enjoy going to cities and trying our hand at their language, we were quite happy that everyone we encountered spoke English, as neither of us knows more than a couple words in German. We heard that the city was too big to really walk from place to place, but we found that not to be true. We walked all over, only taking the tram to get to one destination, so that we didn't miss our tour. Unlike most cities we visit, we both agreed that we could have spent a couple more days there. 
There are pipes like this all around the city. The pink pipes pump groundwater from
constructions sites into canals or the river
Did we mention construction? The whole skyline was littered with cranes and the
streets were constantly buzzing with machinery.  


Checkpoint Charlie.

The US Embassy in Pariser Platz - the only one with armed guards patrolling around.
On one of our walks Jon noticed a boat heading back to my homeland :)



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