August 2013 -- We left Portland about a month ago, and have been back in Amsterdam for two full weeks. It's crazy how fast time has flown! We've accomplished quite a bit in the last couple of weeks and are quickly closing in on the last of our vacation. In our short time here Jon and I have said farewell to my parents, had a great time playing host to our first visitor (Stephanie), and adventure around the city. We still have another post coming about our time in Prague and maybe our trip to Antwerp, but I figured I'd share a little about the rest of our goings on.

The four of us were exhausted by the time we returned to Amsterdam. After driving 1,600 miles through seven countries, we were all looking forward to a relaxing evening in our air-conditioned hotel. Running low on energy and wanting to take a break from the rental car, we feasted on a lovely dinner and drinks in the hotel lobby, filled with loads of complimentary goodies from the chef! 


We all seized the opportunity to sleep in the following morning, then returned the rental car {which needed a bath but didn't have a scratch on her, amazingly!} and wander into the city center one last time. We were greeted by, what we now know to be, true Netherlands weather: drizzle, wind and clouds. We actually welcomed this weather having just survived a heat wave, albeit ill-equipped as we all six of our 49.5lb pieces of luggage FULL of warm weather gear were still in storage. It was nothing a quick trip to H&M couldn't fix.


We walked by the Heineken brewery and skeptically bought tickets to the brewery tour (dubbed the Heineken Experience), thinking the worst-case scenario still included free beer. We were all pleasantly surprised, the tour was well worth the price and Jon and I showed up the whole tour group by knowing how to say 'cheers' in Dutch (I'll admit 'proost' was one of the few words we made sure to learn before flying over here). After our tour we were off to our new temporary home. Not wanting to stay in a small hotel room for the next 2 weeks, Jon and I happened upon Airbnb.com {locals of any given city that offer up anything from a single room to their entire home} and a flat in the area of town we would eventually like to live. Along with my parents, we went and met the landlord to get the keys and we headed back to their hotel to relax for a bit before Stephanie's flight got in. We packed our things into a taxi, said our emotional goodbye's to my parents and headed into the city.
One of the walls in the Heineken brewery

It was so great to have Steph join us in Amsterdam. She managed to find three days out of her busy travels through France to join us in Holland and we were excited to explore the city together. We left our hotel in search of a little food and some good Dutch bier. Stopping at one of the plazas surrounded by restaurants we ordered our Heinekens and nachos. The bier was delicious, the nachos... weren't, they left a lot to be desired. We found a little pub that was serving local bier so we stopped in for a bit more - and were treated to some "way-back play-back" 90's tunes, perfection!

The next morning my parents flew back to the States, so it was up to Jonny and I to play tour guide to Steph. Having only been in the city for little more than day, we really didn't have a clue where to go or what to do... so we, along with Steph, decided to canvas the Amsterdam. We took in the Van Gough Museum, Torture Museum {where we had an impromptu tour guide, an all too enthusiastic patron who had sweat through his shirt and had an unpleasantly upbeat fascination with some of the devices}, Vondelpark and of course, an obligatory wander through the red light district. The next day brought plenty of adventure as well. Steph would be leaving us that evening, heading back to Paris and eventually the states, so we woke up early and rented scooters! The city traffic was still quite intimidating, especially with all the tourists who didn't care to follow the basic road rules, so we headed north. We took a quick ferry ride across the IJ {pronounced "Eye"} and were off to see the northern country to feast on some local cheese. This hit a bit of a speed bump when we felt a couple raindrops. We headed into a coffee shop in the bottom of a building and with a quick glance {and inhaling the air} we realized we were in some sort of assisted living home for the elderly with special needs. The music was loud and circus-like in nature, and the same song seemed to be on repeat. We only know this because while sipping on our coffee, waiting for the light shower to pass, it began to pour. Like Hollywood rain, and it didn't stop. We realized that going farther North was not in the cards so we headed across the street to a local store in hopes of finding a poncho. We were in luck, sadly. We all put the cheap, clear plastic ponchos on and climbed back onto our scooters, wind and rain pelting our faces, and headed back towards the ferry. We dropped off the scooters and grabbed a little lunch, headed back to the flat to grab Step's luggage and headed to the Central Station to see her off.
Torture Museum - one of the contraptions 

Relaxing in Vondelpark
It's just us. It was kind of surreal coming back to an empty flat with no breakfast plans with my parents or trips planned with friends. Just us... In an apartment that we cannot cook anything in because, did I mention, the fridge had electrical problems and did not refrigerate. The 2 times we opened the door in an effort to put groceries in it we were smacked in the face {the whole apartment, really} with the powerful smell of death! So it was a lot of fresh foods or eating out for the next few days. We decided not to extend our time in her flat and moved on to the corporate apartments that Jon's office provides, but not before a horrifying evening of laying in bed listening to mosquitos dive bomb our heads and what we can only assume was a mouse {sounded like a raccoon} pillaging through the kitchen pantry that she kept in her bedroom closet. I swear, I have only heard good things about the site we found her place on, so I know that we just happened on an unlucky adventure. That being said, I did not sleep. At all. 

We were more than thrilled to arrive in a bright and well kept long term hotel, which features free laundry service, a jetted pool, Turkish steam bath, sauna and most importantly, a working fridge! We met with a realtor to take a look at some flats in the city, some better than others... especially where price was concerned, and we also met with someone from Jon's office who took us around, getting us set up with residents cards and a Dutch bank account. This will come in very handy seeing as most businesses here don't accept our traditional credit/debit cards, their cards all have a chip in it. We finally got all of our luggage out of storage and have more than 4 shirts and 2 pairs of pants to choose from. 


And that's it, we have had a lot of fun trying to settle in to Amsterdam, but they haven't been perfect. We still have our moments of missing our Portland "normal," dealing with all the strange customs and language does present challenges, but we seem to be handling them well. We are also quite fortunate to be well connected to our loved ones back home, so we haven't been terribly homesick. So for now, we relax. We have this final week before Jon starts working and before I focus on finding a job. We hope to get a couple of day trips in beforehand {Antwerp was so fun} and taking in a little more of the city. We have both really enjoyed our relaxing times and cannot wait to see what fun the next couple of years has in store for us. 


By the way - here is a panoramic photo of one of the main canals in Amsterdam. It is a bit difficult to see, but we are adjacent to the flower market. 



We really love hearing from everyone, so please keep up emails/comments!

Until next time,


Jon & Sarah








Aug 10-12, 2013 -- We arrived in Prague with a ton of anticipation. Unlike Vienna, everyone listed Prague among their favorite destinations in Europe. Even professional travelers like Rick Steves seemed to devote a few extra sentences in their travel books to describe the city's romantic streets and ancient beauty. With this being the final stop on our trip we decided to enjoy the beauty and take a more laid-back approach to our site seeing (most people that know me are probably laughing when they read this because I don't do anything "laid-back").

With a great hotel just south of the city center's commotion, we ventured into the city on-foot , and it seemed like a pretty easy city to explore on foot (most landmarks are outside, free of charge, and very accessible by public transportation).

A view of the Legii Bridge and St Vitus Cathedral in the distance 
as we walked down Prague's waterfront toward the city center.
In the spirit of taking a "laid-back" approach, we wandered into the city without an agenda. Crowds seemed to build as we approached Wenceslas Square so we followed the crowds in search of Romantic Prague. The square was adorned with colorful flowerbeds and shiny storefronts, and all of this was backgropped by the powerful National Museum in the far end of the square. Perhaps we were starting to see the city's beauty? 

Moments later Sarah's father commented on all the police sirens and belligerent men. At least four or five police cars had passed us with sirens blaring, all responding to what seemed like separate incidents. As we continued toward the Museum, we walked past a man with a bloodied face (clearly the losing end of a street fight) sitting handcuffed in the back of a police car... accompanied by his 4 year old son, no less. To top it off, the large crowds were predominantly well-hydrated bachelor parties making their rounds through the nearby strip clubs. 


We eventually made it through the square and a nearby park seemed like a nice reprieve. Perhaps we've been living in Portland's Pearl District for too long, but the park was horrible! The pavement was full of pot-holes, the facilities were vandalized, and transients were sleeping on all the benches. Even grass didn't want to grow in this park. I decided to call an audible and use my iPhone to navigate us [past a girl shooting heroin in a telephone booth] toward some real tourist spots... fast! Rick Steves surely must have missed this part of town when he visited.


Fortunately this turned out to be the low-point of our visit and we quickly found the "romantic" side of the city everyone had promised. I think the best part of this entire experience was realizing later that night that I forgot to replace the memory card in my camera. Even the higher powers wanted us to forget this experience!

Ultimately we had a great time in Prague and the city lived up to its reputation. Sarah and I are looking forward to returning soon - perhaps skipping Wenceslas Square. We have so many memories over the past few weeks that seem to blur together when we look back at the trip. When we returned to Amsterdam I tried ranking the cities we visited but all of the cities seemed deserving of the top mark. Each city offered a unique experience and we can see ourselves returning to all of them. If this trip is a prelude to the travel opportunities we're going to have over the next two years, I'm certainly excited for the months ahead!


After replacing my memory card, we walked through Stare Mesto (Old Town) in search of dinner. So many tourists!
We found a great little restaurant in Old Town Square. My first mission: Czech Beer!



Old Town Square
St. Nicholas Church as seen from Old Town Square. The church was built in the 18th century and is a great example of Baroque architecture (so I've been told).


Sarah and I parted ways with her parents after dinner. With only one map between the four of us, we had to get resourceful in case they got lost. Who needs a smartphone when you can take a 12 megapixel photo of a smartphone?
All the Prague guidebooks listed this Astronomical Clock as a must-see attraction. I'll admit I was impressed that the clock is more than 600 years old and the world's oldest still in operation. We stayed to watch the "Walk of the Apostles," the clock's hourly show of figures of the Apostles and other moving sculptures. What a disappointment!! Sarah's comment summarized it perfectly: "McKayla is not impressed" (click here or here for pop culture reference).
A close-up view of the Astronomical Clock. The door on the left is one 
of several that open to show the animated Apostles every hour.













One of my favorite pictures capturing the great sunset


I went on a run later that evening to burn off some energy. 
These stairs looked enticing, and turned out to 
have a great view of the city from the top.
I dragged Sarah up the stairs the next morning to share the view.
St Peter & Paul Cathedral
The entrance to the Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge
Starbucks did a great job in every city blending their coffee shops into the existing architecture. This was a good example of a store built into an old building in the castle / palace district.
Finally! The beautiful city everyone talks about.

Enjoying the incredible views from a nearby vineyard

Enjoying a glass of wine after a busy day of site-seeing
Aug 8-10, 2013 -- After surviving Budapest traffic during rush hour, Vienna's Ringstrasse proved to be a manageable challenge. We arrived with fairly low expectations because most of the people we spoke with back in the States ranked Vienna among their least favorite cities. Researching the city ahead of time proved difficult as well; it seemed like Vienna's tourism was much more informal and relaxed (no waiting in three hour lines at the Louvre or the Colosseum). While Budapest and Prague have ample museums and city walks to keep tourists busy, Vienna is much more a city where you can spend an entire day walking down random streets and admiring the beautiful architecture. It seemed like every time we turned a corner there was a magnificent church or palace in front of us. I think this ultimately contributed to our enjoyment because it felt like we were discovering the city naturally. 

The picture below is one of my favorites from our visit - just a random picture of the Viennese skyline as we walked through Volksgarten park.




The only real hitch in our visit was dealing with the weather. A heat wave hit the entire continent in early August and we had prepared ourselves for 99 degree weather (nothing we hadn't experienced back in Portland, right)? The temperatures ultimately hit 104 degrees, which combined with the humidity to create an awful environment! I still think this would have been more manageable back in the States because Americans appreciate ICE water and ICED tea. We spent two hours searching for iced-anything before finding a McDonald's (notice the American company saved the day). Although it felt a bit hypocritical after spending the past two weeks judging other Americans for eating there, I have to hand it to them. Never has an iced tea and soft serve ice cream tasted so good!


Long story short, we survived the heat wave with nothing more than an iced tea and an oscillating fan. It turns out we also earned bragging rights because August 8 reached 104 degrees, the hottest temperature ever recorded in Vienna. The accountant in me has to provide evidence (click here).


We didn't let the heat prevent us from having a great time. All four of us really enjoyed the city and Sarah and I hope to return soon. Again, our pictures are worth a thousand of our words. Enjoy!


Until next time,


Jon & Sarah.



Our first steps on the Viennese streets
The Votive Church. Constructed in 1879 as a show of gratitude to God
following the failed assassination attempt on Emperor Franz Joseph.
One of the many fountains scattered throughout the city
Door knocker

Vienna's impressively high-end shopping district surprised all of us.
Although it started to make sense after spending two days walking
past the opera houses, museums and palaces.



Sarah was pretty happy after finding Christian Louboutin
Pestsäule. German for "plague fountain," the column was erected as a
plea to end the plague epidemic that hit Vienna in the 17th century.

One of the typical "American Tourists" we spotted walking through the city.
We understand why Americans have a bad reputation over here. 

Admiring the sites and sounds of Vienna

The famous Sachertorte was created by Austria's Sacher family in 1832 for Prince Wenzel von Metternich. We decided to go straight to the source and stop by the Sacher hotel. We spotted several different restaurants claiming to offer the 'original' Sachertorte (the cafe where Franz Sacher worked and supposedly invented the recipe; the Sacher hotel where his family first started serving the dessert, etc.). Regardless of the source, they are pretty delicious!

One of the many espressos we enjoyed in the city.
Stephansdom, or St. Stephen's Cathedral. Originally erected in 1147. Very impressive architecture, both inside and out. The ceiling tiles seen in the picture below show a continued trend of covering every inch of a building with ornate detail.

A close-up view of the ornate roof tiles on St. Stephen's Cathedral
Inside St. Stephen's Cathedral

The vaulted nave inside St Stephen's Cathedral





The Vienna State Opera house

Josefsplatz Square. Connected with the Hofburg Palace
grounds and home to the Austrian National Library.

The riders' entrance to Vienna's Spanische Hofreitschule
(Spanish Riding School) where the famous Lipizzan horses
are trained for classical dressage.
A view inside the Spanische Hofreitschule. We took a great backstage tour of the
facilities that left us with a good appreciation for the school and its horses.
Sarah and I sat through a morning practice session. Apologies for the blurry photos, 
but we had to sneak these pictures since photography is not allowed 
(again, they didn't trust our ability to take no-flash photography)

More horses. During the tour we learned the riders dedicate their entire
lives to the sport and only ride with their individual horse. 

We learned that this was one of the biggest "facilities" in Vienna at the time so
the Hofburg family often used it for other events like operas, holiday balls and plays.

The horses. Sarah's discrete picture-taking resulted
in a crooked photo, but they didn't catch us!

The bridle room. The saddles are custom made for each horse,
with separate saddles for practices and performances.
A close-up view of the practice saddles.  
The main entrance to the Spanische Hofreitschule



A side entrance to Hofburg Palace. The Hofburg family
really left a footprint on the city, with palaces, residences,
the Spanische Hofreitschule, multiple museums, etc.
Hofburg Palace, now home to the sitting Austrian President

In front of Hofburg Palace
A statue in the Heldenplatz ("Heroes' Square") which sits in front of Hofburg Palace
Huge doors

The Palace entrance

Just a routine day in Vienna with Ferraris parked in front of the palace.

This building was originally erected to house the Hofburg family's extensive art collection, but now serves as the Hofburg Natural History Museum. Not pictured is a replica of this building directly across the courtyard (apparently their collection was too large for one building) and now serves as the Kunsthistorisches Museum, or art history museum.








Michaelertor, the original entrance gate to Hofburg Palace.
The Austrian Parliament Building.


I feel bad saying this, but all of the buildings start to run together
after three days of site seeing. Wish I could remember this one!
Lions at the Gate


When the city was excavating several years ago they uncovered these ancient ruins under Michaelerplatz square. A plaque near the ruins described them as unearthed remains of a Roman house and remains of the former Burgtheater. The ruins are now exposed and can be seen from street level.

Modern architecture to house Mumok, Vienna's Modern Art Museum
We stopped by an open air market on our way out of town. 
Nearly 2km of meat, produce and textiles.